you will receive small starter plants......see last two photos
Many people grow amaryllis bulbs to have plants blooming indoors in winter. Or can be grown outdoors in a pot or in the ground. They die in winter and come back in the Spring.
Amaryllis plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
Sunlight: Amaryllis thrives in bright, indirect sunlight. Place it near a sunny window with filtered light. Direct sunlight is beneficial during its active growth phase but may scorch the leaves if too intense.
Soil: Plant Amaryllis in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. A mix of potting soil, sand, and peat moss works well. Ensure the soil has a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0-7.0.
Water: Water Amaryllis sparingly until new growth appears, then water regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. Reduce watering after the blooming period to encourage dormancy.
Fertilizer: Feed Amaryllis every 2-4 weeks during the growing season with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Stop fertilizing once the plant enters dormancy after blooming.
Pruning: Remove faded flowers promptly to prevent the plant from using energy to produce seeds. Allow the leaves to remain until they yellow and die back naturally, as they help store energy for the next blooming cycle.
Pests and Diseases: Amaryllis is generally hardy but can occasionally be affected by aphids, spider mites, or mealybugs. Watch for signs of fungal diseases like red blotch or bulb rot, which are often caused by overwatering.
Winter Hardiness: Amaryllis is frost-sensitive and grows as a perennial in USDA zones 8-11. In colder climates, it is typically grown indoors or treated as a container plant. For blooming the next year, allow the bulb to go dormant by ceasing watering and storing it in a cool, dry place for 6-8 weeks before replanting.